OUR ITINERARY
Are you interested in the development of the war in Ukraine along its front line? Are you looking for a tour of the front line accompanied by experts, working as an observer? Then the Ukraine Observatory, part of the Ukraine Development Trust, has the tour for you.
Put together by military and civilian experts with first-hand experience along the entire front line in Ukraine, this tour will offer the opportunity to visit the following front line locations (always subject to operational change):
Kharkiv, a thriving city destroyed by the Russians but still functioning, just 30 kilometres from the Russian border
Kupiansk, a totally destroyed city on the “Zero Line” with shells exploding and small arms fire in the background
Izium, a city previously occupied by the Russians and the scene of unimaginable war crimes
Sloviansk, a city also once occupied by the Russians and now the de facto capital of “free Donetsk”, the part of eastern Ukraine fighting for its independence from the Russian invaders
Kramatorsk, a city surrounded by Russian forces but with functional food and supplies, and Ukraine’s principal railhead in the region
Druzhkivka, a small town with an element of calm despite being surrounded by the Russians
Kostyantynivka, a city surrounded by Russian forces and again on the Zero Line and subject to constant shelling
Dnipro, the site hit by a Russian novel Russian ballistic missile with a multiple re-entry vehicle in late November 2024
Mykolaiv, the scene of a famous battle where the Ukrainian Armed Forces repelled the Russian invaders and changed the course of the war
Kherson, the city once occupied by the Russians until their withdrawal under Ukrainian military pressure in November 2022.
The map of the front line, and the location of all these cities, is updated in real time at www.deepstatemap.live
Possible add-on excursion (depending on military conditions) to Nikopol, to see the Zaporizhzhia nuclear power plant facility (across the water) at Enerhodar
WHAT’S INCLUDED
We offer a fixed fee as a Ukraine Laboratory wartime observer, available on request. Included in this is:
Return airfares to Kraków, Poland in Coach class (Business or First class upgrades available for an additional fee)
Simple accommodation in Kraków, southern Poland near the international bus to Lviv, Ukraine (Ukraine has no flights, its airspace being closed due to the war)
A pre-journey briefing in Kraków by experienced experts
Bus travel (eight hours, including the border) to Lviv, a city in western Ukraine
Application for accreditation with the Ukrainian Armed Forces as a journalist (n.b. this is not guaranteed and is at the discretion of the government department)
Overnight accommodation in Lviv, an additional briefing in Lviv from our resident expert
Overnight train travel (15 hours) from Lviv to Kharkiv
Accommodation in a secure hotel (underground or inside a courtyard) in central Kharkiv
A tour of NGO’s working in Kharkiv
Travel in private vehicles along the front line
Accommodation in private apartments, or hotels where available and safe
Entry to Kherson by train
Return from Kherson by vehicle; staying the night in the ghost town of Kherson, just opposite Russian positions
Return travel to Lviv, and a final night’s accommodation in Lviv
Bus travel back to Kraków in Poland and a final night in Kraków before return Coach air travel to Vancouver.
Donations to certain NGO's that the Ukraine observatory supports
Assistance in coordinating with the authorities
A 24-hour agenda and support at all times of the day and night
Expert guidance on what to see and the history of the war; a full tour of the region on every day
All bookings and reservations
Appropriate vehicles and gasoline
Note that all accommodation may require shared rooms; if you are travelling alone you may have to share with another unknown member of the group. If you want single accommodation at al stages, please inform us and a surcharge will apply depending on availability
A certificate as a Ukraine Observatory fact-finder at the end of the mission.
WHAT'S NOT INCLUDED
What’s not included:
Travel to the destination of international departure or accommodation and expenses in the city from where you fly (you must make your own way to the departing fight)
Health or injury insurance (your health insurance will likely be void in Ukraine; we can direct you to specialist military insurance policy providers if you so wish)
You do not need special insurance to enter Ukraine, despite what you may read on the internet to the contrary. If you want to purchase specialist insurance, then military insurance can be purchased here, but we make no warranties as to its quality:
Meals and tips (eating out in Ukraine is very reasonable in comparison with Canada or most other western destinations)
Body armour (if you want to take body armour or buy it in Ukraine, that is up to you; we recommend body armour but we do not require it; we can take you to shops in Lviv and Kharkiv that well body armour; good body armour can cost US$1,000+; our team members often do not wear it)
Warm clothes (it can get cold in eastern Ukraine)
Night goggles or other military equipment (we do not recommend bringing this for legal reasons)
Ukrainian SIM cards (you will be shown where to buy one and you must present ID; they are very cheap)
Repatriation upon injury. (Note: there is no consular assistance available to foreign nationals in Ukraine, who generally advise their citizens not to travel to Ukraine.)
Souvenirs and casual expenditures
CHECKLIST
Are you over the age of 18?
Do you have a Canadian or US passport? (For other passports, please make specific inquiry; most European passports are also fine.)
IMPORTANT: if you are of Ukrainian heritage, then you should NOT undertake this trip if you are a male Ukrainian national. If you do, you may be detained for military service and there is nothing we can do to prevent this.
Are you fit and healthy? Are you likely to need medical attention while you are away? If so then discuss your condition with one of our consultants but this may disqualify you as medical facilities in wartime Ukraine are not of western standards.
Are you not too fussed by lack of creature comforts?
Do you mind if you don’t have a bath for a few days, and get a bit smelly?
Can you carry all the medications you need with you for a two week journey?
Do you not get perturbed by loud bangs and air raid sirens?
Do you enjoy the spectacular and the unusual?
Do you get on well with a a diverse group of people?
Then congratulations; you are eligible for enrolment as a Ukraine Observatory wartime observer.
WHAT TO PACK
Put all your belongings into a single rucksack that you intend to take with you. Make sure you can carry it for extended periods. Your rucksack should be of the highest quality, as if it breaks then you have a major problem.
Do not carry wheeled luggage or anything that you cannot carry on your back.
A small day bag and bumbag are acceptable too but they should be of military quality.
Pack in layers as temperature varies wildly between seasons and even during the same day. In the winter expect the temperature to fall to as low as -20 Celsius and not to raise above Zero.
A sleeping bag and roll mat are not necessary but might very occasionally come in useful. We will have some to hand in case of need.
Try to pack as light as possible.
Bring all medications you need for your two-week stay, including copies of prescriptions if you have them. (Pharmacies are available throughout Ukraine but the medicines available are totally different to what you might expect in the West.)
Bring sunglasses and mosquito repellent in the summer.
In winter bring a warm coat, a hat, thick socks and leggings.
Do not bring alcohol or gifts. Alcohol is widely available throughout Ukraine and instead of personal gifts, if you want to be generous, bring money in the form of USD as the preferred foreign currency.
Do not bring food, as it may be seized by the Polish customs authorities. Ukraine has no shortage of food, even in wartime.
A pair of thin or thick gloves, depending on the season, is advisable.
Bring a single pair of shoes: military-style boots appropriate for a camping trip. These are worn even in the major cities. Make sure they are broken in and can handle a thick pair of socks if it is winter; you do not want blisters when in Ukraine.
Bring waterproofs. It can rain at any time of the year.
Bring a simple medical kit.
Bring your own toiletries; although you can buy these things in Ukraine they may not be of the brand or standard you are used to.
DO NOT bring any sorts of weapons, even if legal in your own country. Bags may be searched for weapons in and out of Ukraine and in the country at military checkpoints.
If you have any official or government ID, leave it at home. Bring the minimum that, if you lose it, it will not cause you a problem. Petty crime is very rare in Ukraine; but tough travel on the front line can degrade items or cause you to lose them.
Ear plugs and eye patches: expect to be sharing a room with one or more people on at least some nights, as accommodation will vary dramatically in quality.
One or more torches of variable strengths.
Pills to purify water; we recommend the Micropur range.
A pair of binoculars is recommended
A large camera is not advised; use mobile phones to take photographs.
You can bring a laptop but it is not necessary; if you do then ensure it is durable and can withstand bumps and knocks.
A good book or two. There are some long train journeys involved.
Ice crampons for boots, if travelling in winter.
OTHER RULES
Every part of Ukraine we will be visiting has a curfew and we will tell you what it is. In some places it is very early (e.g. 7.30pm in Kherson). Do not breach the curfew. Aside from anything else, it is very dark and you may fall over in the potholed roads with nobody to help you.
Carry your passport on you at all times to prove you are a foreigner and not liable for conscription.
Obey all commands provided by the Police or at military checkpoints.
Do not be drunk in public, even when local people are.
Avoid all confrontations. Apologise and walk away immediately. (In Ukraine you will encounter many soldiers who may be on duty or off duty and some may be drunk. Avoid those that are drunk.)
Tobacco and e-Pipes are very cheap in Ukraine but it is illegal to smoke indoors.
The Russian language is widely spoken to Ukraine but if you speak Russian, avoid speaking it in either Lviv or to soldiers; and it is prohibited to speak Russian on the trains.
Sex tourism is commonplace in Ukraine and STD levels are rife. Do not participate or we will ask you to leave the trip.
If you are sick, inform us immediately as we travel with comprehensive medical supplies.
Install WhatsApp on your cellphone so that instructions and information can be relayed to everyone at the same time. Either buy a Ukrainian SIM card or have a data roaming plan for Ukraine for your entire time away.
Consult with us before donating to NGO’s or other good causes during your trip, as we know many of the NGO’s personally and can help recommend how you spend your money if that is what you choose to do (there is no obligation).
If your passport has a Russian visa or evidence of travel to Russia in it, then you will be detained on entrance to the country. Get a new passport. The same does not apply to any other country, to our knowledge.
All forms of cannabis are illegal in Ukraine. Do not attempt to import them into Ukraine.
Avoid all interactions with the Police or military authorities except with us present. You have no right to a lawyer or to consular assistance if you are arrested. Ukraine exists under martial law.
Avoid drinking tap water outside Lviv.
Try to learn the Cyrillic alphabet if you can; the App DuoLingo is very good for this. They have a short and easy Ukrainian language course. Or see here:
CULTURAL TIPS
It’s illegal for soldiers to drink alcohol on duty. Therefore if you are wearing military clothing in Ukraine (and a lot of people do), expect that shops, restaurants and bars will refuse to sell you alcohol.
Ukrainians consider smiling a sign of frivolity and in formal business interactions, they never smile. Try not to smile back unless someone smiles at you; it will give the wrong impression.
Ukrainians can be very direct in the way they speak. They are not being rude; it is just cultural. “Give me this”, “Get on the floor”: get used to being spoken to in this way. “Please” and “thank you” are used less often than in some western cultures.
Do not shake hands with a woman unless everyone else is doing so as well, The habit of kissing a woman on the cheek in a social situation is unheard of in Ukraine, unless they are your wife.
Ukraine is generally a very conservative society so always bear this in mind, particularly in conversations about religion. People will discuss politics if asked.
Shops are often open late. Carry US dollars and local Gryvnas cash, and take a selection of debit and credit cards as many places take them (fewer in the east). The phrase Обмін валюти, seen everywhere, means money changer and they will change foreign currencies at better rates and with less bureaucracy than banks.
Do not express any opinions favourable to Russia while in Ukraine.
If you have social media accounts expressing favouritism towards the Russian point of view, delete or disable them before entering Ukraine as Ukrainian authorities have been known to vet people using their social media accounts.
Express pro-Ukrainian opinions on any social media accounts you have.
Do not expect internet security when in wartime Ukraine but you can use the internet and send messages home normally.
Ukrainians are animal lovers and you may be encouraged to adopt an abandoned dog or other animal. Seek our advice if you are inclined to do this as the paperwork is complex.
Few Ukrainians outside the major cities (Lviv, Kharkiv, Mykolaiv) speak any English so download Ukrainian and Russian languages onto the Google Translate App so that you can use it even without cellphone coverage.
There is little cellphone coverage near the front line or on trains between major cities; Ukraine is a huge and low population density country.
TO FIND OUT MORE
Contact:
Matthew Parish (United Kingdom)
Please include:
Your full name
Your citizenship, including any dual nationality (we cannot accept customers with dual Russian nationality)
A copy of the photo page of your current passport with at least one year to run to the expiry date
Your age
Your gender
Your state of health and fitness
Any medications you take regularly
Confirm you have no criminal record (this is checked by the Ukrainian authorities for journalists' accreditation)
Any religious requirements you may have that we need to accommodate.
Any disabilities that you suffer from that we will do our best to accommodate given the wartime conditions.
Are you happy to share rooms or accommodation with one or more people? (Some accommodation may be in dormitory style.)
We ask for an initial deposit to reserve your spot.
AVAILABLE DATES
Subject to contingency planning, we anticipate the following departure dates:
January 12, 2025 (returning January 27, 2025)
February 2, 2025 (returning February 17, 2025)
February 23, 2025 (returning March 7, 2025)
Exact itineraries are subject to change and are not revealed to participants for reasons of operational security until they have confirmed their reservations.