By Paul Beesley
My first full day in Ukraine, was spent looking for somewhere to volunteer. The advertised Centre, being closed, I stopped at a church for a quiet think. A military funeral was just ending and afterward, I asked one of the officiating priests if he could help.
He asked a few questions, set me to work distributing bread to his needier parishioners and had a deacon guide me through the Old Town, to a library in the old Market Square (“Plosha Rynok.”) Turns out, he was the Bishop (well, I wasn’t to know.)
The church is the Garrison Church of Saints Peter and Paul, on Theatre Street - a 17th century baroque church, dedicated to the military. Inside are rows of photographs of men. Some young, some older or middle-aged. Some stern, some apprehensive, some in neat dress uniform, some, relaxed and cheerful in helmet and plate carriers - taken in the field.
All are dead now.
I stopped in the church as I was on my way back to the U.K for a Christmas break. While there, I noticed some people working behind and to the side of the altar. A priest told me that they were students and I asked if I might talk to some of them. After a short wait, Vodja, a young polish man, took me (in the manner of a Sherpa,) up narrow stairs, through passages and along galleries into the unknown, unseen parts of the church.
Finally, we reached the organ loft - obviously long disused, and with a huge, triple bellows system, worked by foot-treadles. There is no music in services now - only choral accompaniment. Piped, classical music is played as background. From there, I was introduced to four students (in the accompanying photo, everybody is, from left to right, Anna, Vitali, Yarra, Masha and Vodja.)
In a narrow gallery filled with tools, timber and the dismembered parts of cherubs (don’t ask!) I was offered a seat - which promptly collapsed under me. This broke the ice, but fortunately, nothing more valuable.
The church was requisitioned by the Soviets and used a book store. The structure suffered and it only became a church again around 2011 when a new home was found for the books.
There is a book “And The Heavens Opened,” by Pawel Bolinski (ISBN number (978-83-66172-163-0,) which describes the church, it’s famous 18th century murals and it’s restoration. Vodja, very kindly gave me a copy.
After the decision was taken to restore the church (around ten years ago,) the structural work to foundations, wall and roof was completed and now the emphasis is on the decoration. The four students are all studying at the Lviv National Academy of Arts - 4 year BA courses. There is no “Sandwich Year”, but all are working five days a week (paid.)
All are local, except Masha, who is from Odesa. The three girls are restorers of murals, Vitali ,is an icon specialist and carpenter.
The inside of the main (visible,) area of the church is gorgeous in a sombre sort of way. Gilded capitals on pillasters, marble carvings and high, painted vaults. It is like a grander, older version of the Birmingham Oratory.
The murals cover wall and, notably, the ceiling. They were painted onto wet plaster so that the paint soaks in. Restoration involves cleaning and restoring the original paintwork, only touching up where necessary. Original distemper is used where possible. If not, modern equivalents can be mixed, or brought in. Vitali, uses original egg-based, tempura for the icons. He sometimes uses a beer additive mix.
”Any left?” I asked hopefully.
They reckon the work will be finished in another two years. I asked them “What then?”
“A new project,” said Masha.
“Go on to a new job, probably with the girls,” said Vitali.
“Rest!” said Yarra.
All agreed that they wanted to continue with restoration work. Money though, is a problem. This church has the backing of the Greek Catholic Church, and is a well known structure, in the centre of a major city. Yarra, said that Ukraine, is a very religious country and in Lviv, there are many denominations with Polish culture predominating.
“Don’t let Zelensky, hear you say that!” I said.
The other practical problem is working around the services. Work has to be either moved to avoid interrupting mass (power tools are used by the carpenters and masons,) and some days, work stops altogether.
Everyone is enthusiastic about their work.
“We get to see more than most visitors,” said Anna, who once found an historic document, hidden inside a piece of statuary.
“We get to travel,” said Masha.
Vitali, summed it up,
“To be a restorer is to be a person who can touch history with your hands.”
I thanked every body for agreeing to give up their time and Vodja, showed me back down to ground level. In the gloom, I missed the last step.
Outside, another military funeral was forming up.
